We had an elaborate breakfast laid out for us the following morning: eggs, crepes, yogurt, several different kinds of bread, olives, jam, coffee, and juice.  Although it seemed excessive at the time, I was grateful for the nourishment as we entered the souks and started haggling.

The souks are truly overwhelming.  We found many of the shopkeepers to be pushy but friendly.  Even after talking one man down from 1200 to 400 dirhams, he shook our hands and wished us a happy journey in Marrakech.  We experienced this kind of hospitality outside of the souks, too; a teenage boy sitting on a stoop near our riad called out to us one night as we passed him: “Marrakech is a good city – I hope you like it here.  A thousand welcomes!”

“A thousand thank-yous!” Carlos responded.

It was fascinating just to wander through the streets of the souks, and even with Google maps, it was nearly impossible not to get lost.  We wondered at walls of carpets, shelves upon shelves of leather shoes, and extraordinary amounts of colorful kaftans (long loose-fitting dresses worn by many Moroccan women).  Pastries, fruit, teacups, and trinkets also lined the streets.  One of the main challenges we experienced, though, was not knowing how to determine the value of things that if mass produced could be worth less than 20 dirhams and if handcrafted could be worth upward of 200.

One of the most magical aspects of the souks was their ability to conceal unexpected wonders.  We stumbled upon breathtakingly beautiful original works of art, and we even met a shopkeeper who gave us a gift without us purchasing anything.  We found a “secret garden” hidden behind one gate, providing a drastic juxtaposition to the narrow, bustling streets a few steps away.  Carlos and I walked through the garden and realized that it was connected to a palace with a tower that provided a panoramic view of the entire city.

Our tower tour guide explained to us the significance of the architecture, and also shared stories from his own life.  He had spent some time in Europe, and although he enjoyed his time there, he decided to stay in Morocco.  One of the tour participants asked if he had plans to return to Europe.  “No,” he said seriously.  “I have six children, and I cannot leave them.”

I was surprised; he looked to be in his mid-twenties.

“They are all Labrador retrievers,” he continued.  “Every night, I come home to them and I play my guitar.  They sit around me in a circle as I sing.  I could never leave them.”