After parting ways with our tour guide, Carlos and I headed to our private hammam appointment, held in a ritzy riad near the heart of the old medina.  Guarded by an enormous black door and the tall walls of the alleyway, the riad opened into a beautiful courtyard with several fountains, where we waited for the hammam to begin.

Hammams are a popular kind of spa-experience in Morocco, and it seems that many people participate in the more traditional hammams held in public bath-houses separated by gender.  Ours seemed to be much more geared toward tourists, but it was still unlike any spa or massage I’ve ever had (my closest point of comparison is probably the Ayurvedic massage I had several years ago in India).  We were led into a stone, steam-filled room and told to lay down; after about 5-10 minutes, two women came in to douse us in warm water, cover us in soap, and scrub our arms, stomach, and legs.  I found it simultaneously calming, refreshing, and stifling.  As relaxing as it was to be pampered and exfoliated, I was grateful to stand up and breathe fresh air again.  We had tea and pastries in the courtyard afterward.